How To Build Stone Walls

Dry Wall Method

A dry retaining wall is one that is constructed without mortar. It is a challenging and attractive form of wall and is relatively simple to do. The dry wall depends upon the weight and friction of one stone on another for its stability. Therefore, walls over two feet high require a batter of 2 inches back for every 1 foot in height. When starting a dry wall, the first stones can be laid approximately 6 inches below grade. There is no elaborate footing required for a dry wall since the stones are not bonded together and will raise and lower with the frost. In laying the first layer or "course" larger stones should be used. A line should be then strung along the wall as a guide to keep the rest of the wall straight.

1Now, construct batter boards. These are wedge shaped, flat on one side, sloping on the other. When driven into the ground at the edge of the wall, they afford a quick check on the inward slopes of the wall. Be sure the batter board is at right angles with the ground by checking it with a level.

For best results, lay stones as they would lie naturally on the ground. Do not turn them on end. In laying stones, pack the back of the stones with earth tying some stones into the earth by using larger pieces. Try to break up joint lines so that continuous lines do not appear. A continuous joint line is not as attractive or as structurally sound. Install a continuous drain surrounded by coarse gravel.

In smaller dry walls (up to 2 feet in height) a batter is not always necessary if it si not retaining much earth. A stone coping can also be placed on this wall as well as on a larger battered wall as an alternative way of finishing the top of the wall.

Suggested Materials: Granite, Limestone, Marble, Sandstone, Slate and Quartzite are available in every color and texture for this project.

Mortared Wall Method

This method is used generally for more permanent applications, such as fireplaces, mortared retaining walls, and/or build home facades. A wet retaining wall is like that of a dry wall except for one major difference. The stability of the wall is not dependent upon the friction of stone upon stone, but rather on the mortar that bonds this wall together. Cement mortar is used between stones to secure them together and achieve a monolithic wall. Two requirements of this type of construction are 1) a footing of either solid stone or concrete is required down to the frost line and 2) drainage weep holes must be placed in the wall to allow water to flow through the wall. Its major advantage is the solidity of the wall. Stones will not get kicked out of place and dirt will not run through as it might in dry wall construction.

6Construction is started on this type of wall much like that as described in dry wall construction except, as stated before, there must be a footing down to the frost line if the wall is to remain stable. The batter on this wall should be 1 inch back for every 1 foot in height. This is not as great a batter as used in dry wall construction. In mixing the mortar, use one part cement for every two parts of sand and mix with water to a workable consistency. Pack all voids solid with mortar to achieve a tight wall, taking care not to get cement on the face of the stones.

A wall laid up using a 4 inch stone veneer as a facing is almost always constructed as a wet wall. A concrete footing is poured about 8 inches thick by 24 inches wide (for a 12 inch thick wall) at the frost line. Concrete or cinder block is laid up to just below grade. Then a 4 inch block is laid up leaving a 4 inch shelf to receive a 4 inch stone veneer. Wall ties are placed in between the block as it is laid to bond the veneer to the block. This type of construction almost always requires a stone coping of some sort to cover the veneer and exposed block wall. One advantage in using this type of construction is the unlimited choice of 4 inch veneer stones. In both cases, however, drain tiles should be placed in coarse gravel at the back of the wall, and weep holes (rust free pipe) used throughout the wall to let out water that would accumulate behind the wall.

Free Standing Wall

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A free standing wall can be constructed as described above. It is a double faced application of a retaining wall that is not retaining anything. Construction methods are similar, except that drainage tile and weep holes need not be considered for this type of wall.

Tools & Calculations You Might Need

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  • Heavy Hammer

  • Chisel

  • Brick Hammer

  • String Line

  • Sand

  • Cement (Optional)

  • Level

  • Rule

  • Shovel

Cubic Feet = Length x Height x Width

Square Feet = Length x Width

Area of Circle = 3.14 x Radius2

Circumference of Circle = 3.14 x Diameter

27 Cubic Feet = 1 Cubic Yard

Sand Dust - 3,000 lbs. per Cubic Yard

Concrete - approximately 147 lbs. per cubic foot